Archive for November, 2012

Your bridal set

November 15th, 2012 Comments off

Hello, Drew,

Thank you for getting in touch with me about a puzzle ring bridal set. From your email, I see you are interested in the Marquise Diamond Puzzle Ring & Recessed Celtic Eternal Knot Bridal Set and a bridal set based on the Juliet puzzle ring.

You’ve expressed an interest in a 1CT diamond, and you’ve asked for pictures of these rings with differing views, as well.

I can show you images that will address different parts of the decision making process.

So far the variables you’ve mentioned are diamond size, ring style, and metal choices.  Diamond size has a large bearing on the weight of the puzzle ring, as well, and the weight of the ring affects the width and weight of the wedding band. So we are quickly into more variables than you asked for.

1. I will first address differing views, with what images I do have on hand.
2. Then I’ll talk about diamond sizes and the corresponding weights required for the puzzle ring to hold them.
3. Lastly, I’ll just touch briefly on wedding band thickness (profile) and width.

And before we go on . . .
Let me be clear that I don’t expect you to make all your decisions based on the information here. Our main objective is to determine if you like the look of a heavier, 1CT-diamond puzzle ring, or if you want to stick to a medium-weight ring with a diamond no larger than about 0.72CT. I am also sending you an email with quotes, so you can factor in prices to your decision.

Alternate views
The best image I have of a marquise puzzle ring with a recessed Celtic eternal knot band is a set we just did with a 1/3CT sapphire, accent diamonds, and the 3.6mm wide wedding band (narrower than the one you saw with the diamond ring).

[The added diamonds are not something you are asking for, but this is the image closest to what you’re interested in.]


Here is the set shown on the hand.

Three piece wedding set

Close up view of the marquise setting:

Marquise diamond setting side view

Marquise diamond setting side view


This 0.87CT marquise emerald ring is on 15-gauge metal stock, the lightest weight ring that we can place a 1CT range diamond on.

[This puzzle ring has an open weave. Usually we only do open weave rings with custom, contoured, shadow bands, but we can make any puzzle ring with any size stone in a tight, standard, or open weave.]

The Juliet ring is shown in several views.


[Notice that the puzzle ring weave in the image above is more open than the standard weave in the image below.  We usually pair a band with a standard weave or tight weave puzzle ring. ]

Diamond Sizes
With the exception of the marquise emerald, all the puzzle rings shown above are medium-weight rings.

The easiest way for you to see the relative marquise sizes and the weights of puzzle rings is to visit this page on my site.  Here you can see a variety of rings with marquise stones ranging from 1/3CT up to 1.85CT on ring weights from 16 gauge (medium) to 13 gauge (heavy).

We can place a 1CT diamond on a puzzle ring in a 15 gauge, 14 gauge or 13 gauge weight.

Here is a marquise diamond puzzle ring with a 0.72CT diamond, the largest size of diamond we can mount on a medium-weight puzzle.

Marquise diamond puzzle engagement ring with 0.72CT diamond and 'yovrs onli' Renaissance reproduction wedding ring

Marquise diamond puzzle engagement ring with 0.72CT diamond and ‘yovrs onli’ Renaissance reproduction wedding ring in 4.2mm width


Juliet puzzle ring with a 1CT diamond (with side rubies) on a 13-gauge puzzle ring – heaviest weight.

This is the same ring on the bride’s hand, before we added the rubies and changed the setting to the custom-Triskele style.



Wedding Band Width and Weight
Any of the heavier weights of puzzle ring will work with a wedding band about 2mm thick.  So we call that the profile or the depth of the ring, and then the dimension across the ring is the width.

The band shown immediately below is only made in larger ring sizes, Celtic 9 and up.  It is just over 5mm wide, with a 2mm profile, and so it works well for heavier puzzle rings.  So it is not an option for smaller ring sizes.  (The set pictured here is a medium weight with a diamond under 1/2CT, but the ring size was 9 or greater, so that’s why the band is wider.)

Marquise diamond puzzle ring with recessed Celtic eternal knot band

Marquise diamond puzzle ring with recessed Celtic eternal knot band in the over 5mm width

Below is the Juliet puzzle ring with about a 3/4CT diamond. Somehow we made this one on the medium weight puzzle ring, even though we usually prefer not to.  Some women today prefer their wedding band to be a bit narrower than the puzzle ring.

Your main job right now is to decide on the diamond size – below 3/4CT or up to 1CT.

Then we’ll talk about selecting or designing a wedding band in a width, and weight to look beautiful with it.

This was posted by Mandira Feldvebel of
For more information about Celtic-inspired puzzle engagement rings and bridal sets, please call toll-free within the U.S. and Canada 1-866-573-7381 or outside North America at 505-898-1107. Many thanks for visiting!

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Unique Engagement Rings – How do we make a Celtic-Inspired Puzzle Ring with a Custom Shadow Band?

November 11th, 2012 Comments off

Thanks to Jamie from Minneapolis for writing to ask, “How do you make one of these bridal sets with a puzzle ring and a matching wedding band?”

It’s a great question about a fun creative process.  I’ll walk you through the steps we took with a recent bridal set ordered by a client in Canada.

Chris knew his beloved wanted Tanzanite, a gemstone with strong trichoism: that is, the color varies with the angle of viewing, and it tends to vary from blue to purple to sometimes even burgundy.  That is, in large size Tanzanites.  Smaller ones tend to be light blue to lavender, with flashes of other colors.  Chris settled on a 0.58CT princess-cut tanzanite.

Princess-cut Tanzanite gemstone

Princess-cut Tanzanite gemstone with color typical of sizes under a few carats

He decided to have the stone set in a Guinevere style, Celtic-knotwork-inspired, puzzle engagement ring.  And, because he planned to have a shadow band made to go with the puzzle ring, he opted for an open puzzle ring weave. This means that the center loops (at the north and south points of the stone) are open to the point that you see air between the loops and the stone setting.

The next step was for us to order the stone and the palladium materials for the ring.

For a ring like this, we literally take palladium round wire and hand-weave it into a puzzle ring that really does come apart and go back together.  The trick with engagement rings is that we have to weave them differently than rings that will not bear stones.  We weave it in such a way that the stone setting and gemstone nestle into the puzzle.  Still, you can easily disassemble and assemble your puzzle ring, as it is fully functioning.

The ring was done, shipped to Canada, and Chris proposed. She accepted. Congratulations, Chris!

Now for the wedding ring.  At this point, Chris put me in touch with his fiancée.  Julianne had seen a ring at (full disclosure, Tom’s and my website), that she really loved, and she wondered if we could do something similar for her wedding band. This is the ring she had seen:

Now this Spanish ring is under license from the Ulster Museum in Belfast, Ireland.  You see, this ring is a reproduction of a 16th C. ring found on a sunken ship off the coast of Ireland.  So it is a copyrighted design, so we would never copy such a ring.  However, it is legitimate to be inspired by a such a ring and to create something entirely new that is at least 30% different from the original.  How to measure 30%?  That’s a judgement call, but let’s roughly allocate the major design elements: Shape of ring 1/3; lettering on ring 1/3; and design of hand holding heart 1/3.  We decided to change two of the three elements: the shape and the front design of the hand holding a heart.

Julianne and I had a lively email exchange of drawings, so that I could understand what was important to her.  In fact, she wanted a hand/heart design more typical of those found on claddagh bands, but without the typical crown. In other words, two hands framing a heart.

I showed her a design we had previously made into a wedding band for another client:

Wax from a previously designed set of wedding bands

Rendering from a previously designed set of wedding bands. Julianne loved the hands and the heart!

We decided to ask my wax hand-carver to create hands and a heart similar to the ones in the image above. Naturally, since Julianne’s ring would be a one-off, original, her hands and heart would be completely unique.

So we had achieved our objective of a design that would honor the original ring but be different enough to be uniquely her own.

I had Julianne ship her puzzle ring on Crystal Realm’s shipping account to us in the U.S., while I finalized design details.

Upon receipt of her ring, we created a hand-carved wax based on the design we specified. Each detail was meticulously carved, and then the wax and puzzle ring were photographed for approval by Julianne.

The image I sent her:

Tanzanite Guinevere puzzle ring with hand-carved wax for approval

Tanzanite Guinevere puzzle ring with hand-carved wax for approval

Julianne and I felt my wax artist had captured exactly what she wanted, so we cast, polished, and engraved the lettering. The ring was thus made by the lost-wax casting method, in which a mold is made, then the wax is melted out, and the mold is filled with precious metal, in this case, palladium, a white, platinum-family metal that is non-allergenic and very durable, like platinum, but at a fraction of the cost.  Of course, once the casting is made, much polishing and finishing ensues.  The lettering is hand-engraved, which gives it much character when compared with other types of engraving.

Three weeks later, I got photographs of the finished set and shipped to Chris and Julianne in Canada.  I’m happy to report that Julianne is thrilled with her unique, Celtic-inspired custom puzzle ring bridal set.  Julianne will hand her heirloom-quality bridal set down to her grand-daughter some day.

This image better captures the sparkle of the 0.58CT princess-cut Tanzanite. It’s a gorgeous stone!

See more puzzle ring bridal sets with custom shadow bands.
To talk to me (Mandira) about your own set, please call toll-free 1-866-573-7381 from anywhere in the U.S. or Canada.
Outside North America, please call 505-898-1107. Thank you for your interest in our rings!

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Unique engagement rings – Celtic puzzle engagement rings

November 9th, 2012 No comments

Imperial topaz, a feminine, delicately colored gemstone, here shown on palladium, a white, platinum-family metal that is non-allergenic and durable like platinum but for the cost of gold. Okay, there are differences between palladium and platinum. Palladium is not as dense, so it’s not as heavy, and that’s why it is not as costly as platinum. And this lovely puzzle ring shows an imperial topaz that is quite pink. However, imperial topaz is not a reliable pink, it can be more of a beige/peach color, so if you really want pink, let us do your ring with pink sapphire.

Our unique engagement rings – puzzle rings all – are inspired by the endless knots of Celtic knotwork, and they provide endless fun and fascination as you disassemble and assemble your ring, to the astonishment of your friends and loved ones.

A full selection of colored gemstone puzzle engagement rings.

Diamond puzzle ring collection.

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Unique Engagement Rings – Celtic Blue Diamond Puzzle Engagement Ring

November 9th, 2012 No comments

Ah, blue diamonds! Yes, we can source natural blue diamonds – they tend to be fairly costly, but oh . . . so worth it! Or . . . we can get you a treated blue diamond for a little bit less than a white diamond of comparable specs. This Guinevere puzzle engagement ring bears a 1/2CT range treated blue diamond (0.48CT to be precise) with VS clarity. The ring is palladium, our favorite white, platinum-family metal.

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