Archive for March, 2011

What style and weight for your men’s four-band puzzle wedding ring?

March 6th, 2011 No comments

Men’s four band puzzle rings

Below is the ultra-heavy Cambridge puzzle ring shown in 14K yellow gold.  Choose from 14K  yellow or rose gold; a combination of two or four colors of gold; palladium or platinum. We cannot make this ring in ultra-heavy 14K white gold, as it is virtually impossible to hand-weave such heavy white gold – it is not malleable enough. So we usually make white gold in one gauge lighter. Not very discernable to the eye, but I can show you images upon request!

Men's Cambridge four-band puzzle ring in 10ga 14K yellow gold

Shown below in 14K rose and white gold is the men’s heavy-weight, four-band puzzle ring in an open weave.

Men's four-band, heavy, 12ga puzzle ring in 14K rose and white gold

If you would like more information about these or any other puzzle rings, please contact Mandira at 1-866-573-7381 or by email.

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14K or 18K white gold rings – white gold color or rhodium plated?

March 5th, 2011 No comments

The question of white gold color is one that comes up over and over again, since some of the rings at are historic reproductions, and some are not.  Here’s important info on all of Crystal Realm’s white gold jewelry:

Ring Style in White gold Karat Gold Rhodium-
Traditional poesy rings 14K
No……………….. These are Renaissance reproduction rings, which are not rhodium plated.  14K white gold poesy rings have a slightly creamish cast to them; 18K white gold poesy rings are a tad creamier.

You’ll see the naturally creamy color more under artificial light.  I’ve had clients take delivery of these rings and call me to report they received yellow gold.  All it takes it looking at the ring in a more natural light, near a window, skylight, or outdoors, and it’s easy to tell it is white gold.

In 14K white gold, these rings are the best match for our puzzle engagment rings, since both are not plated with rhodium, and the underlying 14K white gold alloy of one ring is very close to, if not identical, to that of the other style.

Custom poesy rings 14K
Your choice If you want a white gold custom poesy or custom design of any kind ring to go with a puzzle engagement ring, I recommend palladium, rather than white gold, to ensure the rings match.
Puzzle engagement or
puzzle wedding rings
14K only No As you can imagine, a plated puzzle ring would lose it’s plated finish at an alarming rate as you play with taking it apart and reassembling it.  For strength, we use only 14K gold in any color for puzzle rings, so I recommend you select a 14K wedding band to go with it.
Irish Celtic Wedding bands By default, yes.
Upon request, no.
The Irish Celtic wedding rings we carry have an unusually heavy rhodium finish, so it is more reliable than most. 

Additionally, you can opt to have your rings non-rhodium plated, by speaking with me or emailing me at Contact Us, at, on the left navigation bar.

If you want your Celtic wedding band to go with a puzzle engagement ring, then I recommend you select palladium or platinum. Palladium is a platinum family metal that ensures that both your puzzle ring and Celtic wedding band will match in white color.

Color of 18K white gold rings:  Usually when you see a 14K or 18K white gold ring in a jewelry store, that ring will be rhodium plated, so it will be bright white!  You won’t see the difference between them, as rhodium will make them the same color.  Rhodium is a platinum-family metal that is widely used in the modern jewelry industry but that is not used on any white gold poesy or puzzle rings on our site.  One reason is that our rings tend to be historical reproduction, and rhodium was not used in antiquity.  A reason we are not, in general, big fans of rhodium plating is that it has to be redone 1-3 times per year.  You can have a simple band replated by a local jeweler; it tends to run about $45.00 to $50.00 each time.  If you really want that bright-white look, then you can maintain it with replating.

The 14K WG of poesy rings has a slightly warmish cast to it, by comparison, and the 18K white gold is a creamier color.  It looks like white gold (although not the bright, dead white of plated rings) in natural light, but it looks warmer and creamier under most types of inside lighting.  It’s absolutely my favorite white gold!  It’s totally gorgeous, in my view!

Here’s an image of a ring shown in 18K white gold:

Part of the problem of trying to see small differences in colors online is that every computer monitor tends to have the color calibrated a little differently.  So what might look beautiful on one monitor could look dingy on another.

The difference in color between a 14KWG and an 18KWG poesy ring is not that great.  The difference between a rhodium-plated 18K white gold ring and a non-rhodium-plated WG ring is very pronounced.  So you might want to compare the ring under the link above to this one:

This is a platinum “yovrs onli” that is very white naturally, but closer in color to a rhodium plated white gold ring of any karat content:

Here is a link to a non-antiqued white gold “yovrs onli” in a bridal set, just so you can see how it looks.
2. These rings are not engraved on the inside – the lettering is actually cast in when the ring is made, so we can’t offer it blank on the inside.  There is a small space on the inside where you could likely have initials engraved – it’s about 3/8” wide.

Widths and Weights
Since these rings originate from hand-carved waxes, the width will vary by size and a little from year to year.  Each time a mold wears out, then a new wax must be carved, so that’s why widths can vary a little bit over time.  Plus, since all poesy rings are made in whole sizes and sized up for fractional sizes, the whole sizes generally run a little wider than half sizes. Following are some typical widths and weights.

Ring style Precious Metal of ring measured Size Weight – gm Width – mm Profile (thickness) mm
BR001R Yovrs Onli SS 6 2.9 3.9 1.74
BR001R Yovrs Onli 18KYG 7 4.4 4.6

BR001R Yovrs Onli 14K WG 7.5 3.6 3.88 1.5
BR001R Yovrs Onli 14K WG 8.5 4.5 4.5 1.65
BR001R Yovrs Onli SS 9 3.5 4.2 1.7

All this is to say that the size 8 could run about 4.2mm in width.

Another issue I’d like to mention is the sizing.  These rings are not made in regular U.S. sizes, so we offer a sizing gauge that matched poesy sizes precisely, and we can send it anywhere in the world.  If you haven’t had our sizer for your fiancé, please email me your address (or his, if he’s at a distance from you), and I’ll be glad to send out a sizer gauge.


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More on puzzle engagement ring weights (and a preview of our new custom triskele knot setting)

March 5th, 2011 No comments

The main factor that governs the weight or gauge of precious-metal stock we need to use for your ring is the size of diamond or gemstone we mount on your ring.

Generally, our 4-band, medium-weight, puzzle engagement ring will hold a stone up to approximately 0.72CT, or seven-tenths of a carat.  When you opt for a larger stone, we must make your ring sturdy enough to hold the stone securely and to ensure that if your, for example, marquise diamond gets caught on something, it will not destroy your ring as a result of your ring being too light weight.

Each weight, or gauge, of stock precious metal, in combination with the weave you select, will offer a different look.  Even when we go to replicate a ring shown on our website or on our “Select your style and weave” page, it will not be identical to the one shown in our image.  Your ring is hand-woven, and it is a one-off, original, wearable, work of art.  If you look at enough images of these gorgeous rings, you will also become aware that each one is slightly, quirkily, asymmetrical, because of its hand-woven nature.

The marquise diamond ring above bears an approximately 0.46CT marquise diamond.  Weight: medium with a standard weave, which will hold a marquise diamond up to 0.72CT.

A lot of people fall in love with this set, and, if you do, it’s important to consider the size limitation of the diamond or colored gemstone this set will hold. For a gemstone or diamond heavier than 0.72CT, we must make your ring a little heavier, like the one shown below.



The rare 0.87CT blue-green marquise emerald, above, is too large for a medium weight ring, so we wove this ring with just-over-medium-weight 14K white gold.  It makes for a bigger ring, especially with the open weave, as shown here, and it is properly sized for the dimensions and weight of the gemstone.


1CT Marquise Diamond 15 Gauge Puzzle Ring with Irish Celtic Claddagh Band


The puzzle ring above is made with a 1CT diamond and the same slightly heavier gold stock as shown with the marquise emerald ring, only in this case in three colors – 14K rose, 14K yellow and 950 palladium. This is a standard weave puzzle ring with a made-to-order claddagh band.


Laura on her wedding day in Italy, wearing her Juliet, princess-cut, 1CT diamond puzzle ring, with heavy, 18K yellow gold puzzle bands and a 14K white gold setting.   We make almost every puzzle engagement ring in 14K gold, rather than 18K, because it is so much stronger.  But with the heavier bands comes strength that compensates for the higher concentration of gold (18K gold being 75% gold and 25% other metal alloys).  Still, we stick to 14K for the setting, because we want the strength of 14K in the part that holds the diamond.  Laura’s ring is about a size 4.75, so her ring illustrates that our heaviest weight women’s puzzle ring looks gorgeous even in a small finger size.

On another note . . .

We are just about to redo Laura’s setting with our new Celtic triskele diamond setting, shown in a CAD rendering below.



And here is how her ring turned out. For this or any other puzzle engagement ring, please call Mandira at 1-866-573-7381 or email her directly.


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